Color Me Bad Pt 2



Okay, so we’ve already discussed how your hair can play a vital role in the coloring process, the different types of color, and how to choose the color that is good for you. I promised that we would talk about how to achieve the color that you want, in doing so should you or should you not bleach your hair, and what to do if you want to double process your hair meaning I want to change the over all color and then add some high lights along with low lights in one day.

In order to achieve the hair color that you want you must first decide how drastic of change you are looking to achieve. Do you want something subtle and not noticeable, something that will get one look or something that will get several looks along with ooo’s and aww’s. We all love hair color and when we do decide to change our hair color we take the less damaging route. With this in mind a lot of people choose to use semi-permanent hair color and or demi-permanent hair color (No-lift colors deposit only). We all love to make changes and take risks and we think that we can achieve the bright funky reds and browns from these two types of hair colors. Well as you may or may not already know (If you tried it already) unless your hair is already naturally light or pre-lightened it won't really do anything but make your hair look darker or add a "glow" in the sunlight, which is not really what we are looking for. The only way to really make your colors (semi/demi) "POP" is to lighten the hair with that terrible lightening/bleaching process. Permanent hair colors will “Pop” depending on the volume of developer that is used. The different levels of developer ranges from 10 volume to 50 volume developer. If you want a lot of lift for a drastic look you will need a 30 + volume developer. Note: Developers are used with permanent colors and bleaching only. Developers range from 10 volume to 50 volume and anything past 30 works faster and it will damage your hair far more than the other volumes. Seek professional advice and assistance! When it comes to permanent colors and trying to achieve your desired hair color it’s pretty much the same, with the exception that you will see a difference. If your hair is naturally dark, the developer that is used depending on the volume will not take your natural hair color which may be a level 2 all the way to a level 7 or 8 it will color it but it won’t make it “POP”. This is where lightener’s come into the picture.

Have you ever considered lightening your hair or bleaching your hair? Well let me just say that is a very big step to take when it comes to coloring the hair. There are two types of lightener’s on-the-scalp and off-the-scalp, which comes in three forms oil, cream, and powder. Lightening the hair is usually done to remove the natural melanin from your hair with the chemical Hydrogen Peroxide. When this happens it also strips the hair of its natural luster and sometimes its elasticity. Some lighteners and bleaches are followed by a toner, semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color for coloring purposes. NOTE: DO NOT use a permanent hair color on top of a lightener because it also used hydrogen peroxide and will lift the hair even more and continue to dry the hair out. Lighteners/Bleaches are also used to highlight the hair. Highlighting the hair invovles coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add illusion and depth to the hair. Lowlighting (Reverse highlightening) is a technique tht is used to color the hair stands darker than the natural hair color. You can highlight the hair with a tinting cap (just pull the hair through the little holes), and other hair techniques such as foils, slicing, weaving, and the baliage technique (free form) that are done by professionals. There are highlighting kits available in the store in a little box (like some chemical hair relaxers) that come with the bleaching formula and the toner all in one. So as it highlights it colors at the same time. There is a product called Kaleidocolors that does the same thing, it bleaches and tints at the same time. I wouldn’t suggest that product for home usage. Despite the fact when you lighten the hair and/or highlight the hair it makes the hair more interesting, it is very drying and can lead to damaged hair and breakage, especially if you are not conditioning the hair like you are supposed to. Unless you have some experience with hair lightening or bleaching do not try at home. You should see your personal regular stylist for those services including any type of coloring.

Double processing the hair is basically decolorizing the hair first with a lightener and then using a separate product to deposit color. Double processing is any processing procedure that uses two different chemicals that require two different processing times within one time frame (same day). Remember when I discussed how to make your semi and demi- permanent colors to “POP” that is double processing. Double processing with permanent hair color and lighteners is NOT RECOMMENDED and you should not let a stylist do the same. Those of us who rock the relaxer, double processing is definitely not recommended, simply because the relaxer will dry your hair out if not applied and maintained properly and adding bleach or permanent color that contains hydrogen peroxide is going to make it even more dry. The double processing that I am referring to in this instance is coloring your hair with a permanent hair color and then going back and putting highlights throughout the hair. I know a lot of Caucasians who can do this and has done this and it seems to not affect the hair at all but I have seen a few who have done this and their hair looks very dry and brittle so yes it can damage any texture of hair. I do not recommend coloring the hair with a permanent hair color and highlighting in the same day. I would suggest waiting at least two to three weeks to do so, even then it is a risk. NOT RECOMMENDED FOR RELAXERS!!!

Temporary to Permanent hair color (gentle to harsh) will cause damaging effects to the hair and will dry the hair out. It is important that you condition, Condition, CONDITION your hair! We want to keep the hair pretty and healthy. There’s more to come in the next blog we will discuss “How to Correct a Color” Stay tuned and tell a friend! ~♥Miss Nic♥~
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